Wednesday, May 16, 2012

"A rolling stone gathers no moss"


Anyone who has ever moved to a new place, started a new job, picked up at a new school, or simply made a serious life change, knows that there is a period of adjustment that is inevitable.  When I was a young kid, my family moved from Alaska to Virginia over the course of a summer.  My parents purchased an RV for the ride and there was one special seat in that RV, right next to the door, that I made my own.  I built “a little nest” as my mom used to tell me.  I can’t remember if I was forced to take that seat by my older brothers or if I picked it on my own, but it was my place.  I haven’t changed much in that regard.  Whenever I move, I need my apartment set up as fast as possible.  I work relentlessly for days until it feels like a home.  For someone who has had 11 apartments/houses in the last 12 years, this fact makes for a lot of nesting time.  I tease my father for having a routine that is unwavering.  What he might not know, or maybe he does, is that it is so noticeable to me because I share a lot of the same qualities. 

I do not like transition, and despite doing it a lot, I even dread change in a way – because it is always associated with a period of conversion from the happy life and routine that already exists to the unknown.  What keeps me in the cycle is that I always love the outcome and I am always so happy that I took that step.  I have written about this before, but my older brother once told me that “people like us need to live at least 50% of the time doing things that are outside of our comfort zone”.   Even at the time, I knew he was right about me.  I think this is part of the reason that I have loved the world of academia so much.  Every 15 weeks there is a slight change to the routine and a chance to reestablish and learn something new.

When I moved to Saudi at the end of 2010, I knew that there would be an immense period of changeover; probably lasting longer than any amount of transition time before it.  One of my favorite traits about my mother is that she can walk into a room and know 10 people within 5 minutes.  She can create her own nest in a matter of a few short moments.  I always think about this when I go to a new place – just jump in and accept that you’re the new person and go for it.  This is usually fairly easy to do, but in Saudi, the story was a little different.  There is a moment after a change and after the rustled leaves of life settle back down, where you realize that all of the networking, friend-making, going to groups and meetings alone, and attempts at socializing, finally pay off.  You wake up one day and realize that your nights are all full of events and friends, dinners and get-togethers.  It’s that twinkling of a second where all of the hard work is realized.  Never has it taken me so long to get to that point after any new venture, but a year and half after being here, it has finally happened.  Saudi is such an underground and private culture, that it took 18 months to find that niche...but I’m happy that it has finally arrived, and proud of myself for having stuck through it, because the people that I have met along the way, will always be apart of this journey.  It has also been a great lesson in perseverance; a lesson that will no doubt impact any future changes from here on out.

Last Thursday night I was honored to have been invited to a high-end Saudi wedding.  Weddings in Saudi (at least this type of wedding) are a very esteemed and glamorous event.  Wearing my one and only gown, I arrived at a huge building, whose insides were custom built for this particular occasion.  The National Guard directed cars for the roughly 500-700 female guests to the entrance, where men in traditional military attire were waiting to open our doors.  As you know, Saudi is in the desert – which implies that the aroma of flowers is very hard to come by, so I was fabulously surprised when I entered and was hit in the face with a waft of thousands of fresh cut flowers.  After turning in my abaya and finding a seat in an enormous room full of couches and chairs, with a large isle down the middle that divided the room in half, I sat back and watched the fashion show in front of me.  Designer gowns and shoes, diamonds and emeralds dripping from the ears, necks, and wrists of women – it was like being at the Oscars.  Ironically, I later found out that people who did the lighting for the wedding actually are the same people that do the lighting for the Oscars every year. 

Despite the amazing clothes, hair, and make up, the culture of the event was just as remarkable.  Since men and women cannot mingle, the room was full of only women.  However, there were a few American and British male photographers walking around the space.  When they walked passed, many of the women pulled scarves over their faces, because it is unseemly for women to be photographed by a man, or to be in photographs in general.  A few hours into the countless bites of the most amazing chocolate I have ever had, the bride entered.  She had a six-minute walk from the second level, down a custom staircase, and onto the isle in the middle of the room.  She was alone; fathers do not accompany brides in Saudi on this occasion (as is customary in the states).  Truth be told, the actual wedding occurred two days prior, when the father of the bride signed his name in a book, declaring her husband as her new guardian.  My naivety took over a bit and I leaned to my friend and asked her, “Whom is she walking towards?”  Turns out, she was walking to a chair, on a stage, at the end of the room.  There was no service.  For the next 20 minutes, women lined up to take pictures with her.  At one point, several of the brides friends partook in a Kuwaiti tradition of pulling on black mesh cloth, lined in gold trim, with their names written in Arabic, and did a short dance for the bride.

After this time, a group of 15 men (including the groom) entered from the back of the space, dressed in traditional wedding Thobes (a customary male garment), and made their way to the front of the room where the bride was standing.  Women again covered their faces and the men did not divert their eyes, as it is inappropriate to look at women.  For the next 10 minutes, only women in the family (from the bride and grooms side) took pictures with the group, before everyone (including the bride and groom) exited the room.  During the entire night, this half hour was the only time that the bride was present. 

Several hours later, we were ushered into the most beautiful room I have ever seen.  Dressed in deep purple, the giant room was lit by hundreds of crystal sconces, each holding about 12 candles.  An 8 ½ foot cake decorated the doorway (the cake was never cut).  Tables with flowers and food peppered the room, but the real pièce de résistance was the food that lined the walls on both sides.  It would take days to describe exactly how much food was there and how good it was. 

Something worth noting is the timeframe that this wedding occurred.  I arrived at the building, along with a friend who was also invited, at 10:30pm.  The bride entered and left between the hours of 1am and 2am, and dinner was served at 4am.  I left at 6am and there were still several hundred people at the venue.  No alcohol and no men, just women rhythmically dancing to expected Arabic music. 

The entire night, from start to finish, was the best night that I have had in Saudi Arabia.  It was an amazing opportunity and is something that I will think about and remember for the rest of my life.  Latin writer, Publilius Syrus, was the first person credited with saying (although it has been adapted over the years), “A rolling stone gathers no moss”.  Respectfully, I have to disagree with Syrus on this one.  I may be a bit of rolling stone right now in life, but I am gathering moss – these memories, struggles, opportunities, and moments are my moss.  They make up the part of my life that will stick with me, long after I return home to my roots. 


--Cat S.